This Island Spanning Maryland and Virginia Is the Perfect Beach Getaway — With Wild Horses, Kayaking, and Beach Camping (2024)

Smack in the middle of the East Coast, roughly three hours by car from Philadelphia, Assateague Island National Seashore is a 48,000-acre preserved stretch of coastal wilderness on a barrier island along the Atlantic. Assateague not only remains one of the largest mid-Atlantic barrier islands to have a continuum of intact coastal habitats, but it does so with little to no human interference.

The ecosystem here is so valued that it takes three separate agencies to manage it (the National Park Service, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, and Maryland Department of Natural Resources). Add to that the fact that the island is split between two states, Maryland and Virginia, and it's easy to see why travelers often throw up their hands in confusion before ever setting foot on the rugged, windswept shoreline.

"The geography of the island is in a state of constant flux," Liz Davis, chief of interpretation and education for Assateague Island National Seashore, told Travel + Leisure. "[It's] continuously being reshaped by the elemental forces of wind and water. A powerful storm can dramatically alter the shoreline in a matter of hours."

But other forces are at play here, too. For a quick tutorial on how to make the most of this extreme wilderness at the edge of the sea, read on.

Assateague Island Horses

Wild horses have been present on Assateague for hundreds of years, though it's not entirely clear how they got there. Some believe they're survivors of a shipwreck, but the National Park Service says, "the most plausible explanation is that they are the descendants of horses that were brought to barrier islands like Assateague in the late 17th century by mainland owners to avoid fencing laws and taxation of livestock."

Today, you're better off catching them on the Maryland side of the island. (Then again, if you're hoping to ride the horses, you can do so year-round on the Virginia side and only seasonally in Maryland.) You can see them on your own or through a third-party wildlife tour organizer.

In the spring, it's not uncommon to spot mares strolling around with their foals. If you happen to witness the tiny horses taking their first wobbly steps, be sure to give them a wide berth. Davis recommends standing back at least 40 feet (or a bus length) from young families. "Mares and foals need that bonding time," she explained.

Water Activities on the Island

Both the Maryland and Virginia sides of Assateague Island have beaches primed for getting out on (or in) the water. During the summer, lifeguards staff certain sections, and water temperatures reach into the 70s.

But there are lots of beach-related activities to get into, from dolphin-watching tours to surf fishing, clamming, and over-sand beach driving. You can even rent kayaks, canoes, or paddleboards from Assateague Outfitters' stand at the end of Bayside Drive on the Maryland side for self-guided exploration ranging from a couple hours to multiple days.

For a more secluded way to spend your time on the water, Davis recommends heading to the bay (western) side of the island, which is less frequented by crowds. "I'll spend most of my time kayaking, wading, swimming, clamming, and crabbing in the shallow, warm bay waters. I often feel like I have the whole bay area to myself," she said.

For a guided kayaking expedition, Assateague Explorer and Assateague Outfitters offer tours.

Driving on the Beach

Assateague Island National Seashore has two entrances: one on the north end, just eight miles from Ocean City, Maryland, and another on the south end, two miles from Chincoteague, Virginia. While you can't drive from one entrance to the other (you'll have to return to the mainland to do that), you can access certain areas of the beach — called Over-Sand Vehicle or "OSV" zones — with your car.

To do that, you'll need a four-wheel drive vehicle and an Over-Sand Vehicle permit. Permits should be ordered online and picked up at either Maryland's North Beach Ranger Station or Virginia's Toms Cove Visitor Center. They cost $110 to $200, depending on the type of access desired.

"Driving on the beach is a unique privilege not found in too many areas. It can feel like a real 'getaway' once you leave the paved roads," says Davis.

Best Time to Visit Assateague Island to Avoid Crowds

Summer is Assateague Island's high season, drawing beach bums, nature buffs, July Fourth revelers, and vacationers of all sorts. Avoid this crowded season if you're hoping for a quiet getaway and go during the shoulder season instead (but know that September is peak time for surfing).

The closer to winter you get, the fewer tourists you're likely to come across. By January, the barrier island virtually empties out, making for a unique visiting experience. If you don't mind the cold, you'll be treated to easy parking, peaceful trails, and exceptional wildlife-viewing opportunities.

Best Time to Visit for Good Weather

While the seashore stays open year-round, the climate can vary widely from season to season. For sunny days, your best bet is a visit in July or August, when temperatures can reach the high 80s, and the ocean is at its warmest. "Summers at Assateague are generally hot and humid," Davis said. Summer visitors should go prepared with plenty of insect repellent and protective clothing, as mosquitoes, biting flies, gnats, and ticks are an ongoing nuisance throughout the summer. (Pro tip: Check the weather forecast before your trip to avoid western winds, which can blow biting flies from the marshes onto the beach.)

Opt for a September trip for comfortable temperatures and fewer bugs. "Fall can be a really nice time to visit," according to Davis. "The humidity drops, but the temperature still feels like summer, and the water is still warm."

Assateague Island Camping

Assateague Island National Seashore is not the kind of beach destination where you'll relax by a hotel pool with a co*cktail in hand. There aren't any grand resorts or even inns on the island, but if you want to stay the night, you can camp.

Camping at Assateague means falling asleep to waves crashing outside your tent and waking up to horses roaming free along the beach. Only the Maryland side has camping options; there are sites both on the ocean side and on the bay side. There are also special sites for groups and horses, plus additional campgrounds not managed by the NPS at nearby Assateague State ParkandPocomoke River State Park.

Some stipulations to consider when booking a camping trip: You'll want special sand stakes to keep your tent anchored in the wind and sand and a screen tent to provide shade and protect against the relentless mosquitoes. All food must be stored in vehicles or provided lockers for the safety of both campers and the free-roaming horses. And you can have a campfire, but only with firewood purchased locally to ensure it won't introduce pests that could disrupt the island's unique and delicate ecosystem.