One of the liveliest areas in all of Paris, the 9th arrondissem*nt is commonly known for the impressive Palais Garnier – and for being a little risqué.
Home to the Moulin Rougue, funky restaurants, and more than its fair share of adult shops, this area is boldly unapologetic and highly refreshing.
Here’s a look at my favorite experiences from a short (yet memorable) stay in and around the 9th arrondissem*nt.
1 - Explore Rue des Martyrs
One of the most famous streets in Paris, the Rue des Martyrs spans two arrondissem*nts, the ninth and the eighteenth.
This funky, eclectic slice of Paris runs for about half a mile and is home to nearly two hundred small shops and restaurants.
One of my favorite memories of hiking this street was finding a carousel in the middle of it.
While my husband and I didn’t spend as much time here as we would have liked, we did walk up and down it frequently going to and from our hotel.
You can read more about this iconic street’s interesting history here.
2 - Eat at Pink Mamma
Pink Mamma is a drool-worthy trattoria that first caught my eye on Instagram. It’s the newest restaurant addition to the “Big Mamma Group.” They have six other locations throughout Paris, which you can read more about here.
Pink Mamma is unique in many ways, one being that is has four floors, making for a really impressive street view.
When I first saw it on my favorite influencer’s page, I knew it would be popular, but I had no idea is was legit Insta famous.
I was immediately struck by the stairway and how its gigantic windows blur the boundary between outdoors & indoors.
My original plan, if nothing else, was to check out this place and get a picture by the stairway for the sheer beauty of it.
I honestly didn’t even realize it was a restaurant at first, until a Parisian friend of mine recommended it for Italian food prior to our trip. She had me at Italian.
Once I knew one of my favorite styles of food was involved, the new plan was to also score a reservation at this Parisian hot spot.
My husband and I stopped by during our last afternoon in Paris and I asked the hostess if I could make a reservation for that night. I wasn’t able to reserve, but she gave us helpful suggestions for the best time to arrive as walk-ins.
Essentially, for the best chances of getting a seat, plan to arrive about half an hour before doors open.
This restaurant is open for both lunch and dinner, but it’s closed in between the two meals.
Monday through Wednesday, Pink Mamma is open from 12:00 – 2:15 PM for lunch and then again from 6:45 to 10:45 PM for dinner. On Thursday and Friday it’s also open 12:00 – 2:15PM for lunch and then 6:45 to 11:00 PM for dinner. Saturday and Sunday are both open from 12:00 – 3:00 PM for lunch and open 6:45 for dinner, but Saturday dinner goes to 11:00 PM, whereas Sunday dinner ends at 10:45.
The hostess was not only helpful regarding our return that night, she was also kind enough to accommodate my photo request by the Insta-famous staircase. We had to share the space with a couple of other photographers to get my dream shot, but it was absolutely worth the wait.
However, what really made this experience worth it was what happened when we returned that night for dinner. We were half an hour early and the line was already halfway down the block. I found myself wondering if we’d be dining with a celebrity!
Before they opened the doors, my husband and I watched through the windows as the servers prepared. We noticed a few of them pouring themselves a shot and toasting.
To me, that is the essence of European life: people enjoying.
You’d be hard-pressed to find servers toasting before a restaurant opening in Manhattan (unless the windows had some serious tints). Customers would be in an uproar. They’d probably knock on the windows and there’d be at least six bad Yelp reviews before the doors opened.
But here in Paris, toasting was as natural as swigging from a water bottle. That joyful “cheers” was one of my favorite moments of the trip, a toast to life!
FUN FACT: Since Pink Mamma has four floors (and is very busy in the evening), they fill the restaurant from the bottom up during dinnertime. The closer you are to the front door before opening, the closer you’ll sit to the ground level.
If you’re curious about their menu, you can check it out here. I can personally attest to the deliciousness of the Mammargherita pizza. I gobbled it up before I could snap a picture, so you’ll just have to imagine it!
Regardless of what you order, the atmosphere is so funky and fabulous, you’re bound to have a great time here. I can truly say that this was an Insta-famous place that lived up to the hype!
3 - Visit Montmartre
The best part about staying in the ninth arrondissem*nt was its close proximity to Montmartre, my favorite area in Paris.
There’s a subway station just a short walk from where we stayed, and it was only about a fifteen minute journey to beautiful Montmartre.
After seeing countless pictures of streets just oozing with Parisian charm, I knew I’d love it there, but I had no idea how significant it would feel.
It’s an area of Paris that makes you work for it. Striking city views are a reward for steep, towering staircases.
When you walk here, it seems that you are mostly on an incline. Fortunately, each new level brings its own unique gifts and some of the best views you’ll see in Paris.
Montmartre is also home to the cutest pink restaurant I’ve ever seen, La Maison Rose. Another restaurant made famous by Instagram, I will definitely need to return here one spring, as it was unfortunately closed the day we were here.
This is the perfect area of Paris for wandering, provided you can manage the steepness. Each street corner gifted me with another beautiful view and striking storybook architecture.
My one regret from this trip is not spending more time in beautiful Montmartre (and inadvertently losing a good portion of the pictures I had from here), but at least now I have an excuse to go back!
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